VOL. II.

CHAPTER I.
THE PUSZTA.

The Puszta - its Extent and Formation. - Fertility. - Animals. - A Sunset
on the Plains - The Mirage. - Puszta Village. - Horse-mills. - The Puszta
Shepherd - his Morality. - The Bunda. - The Shepherd's Dog. - Debreczen.
- The Magyars - their Pride. - Contempt of other Nations. - Idleness. -
Excitability. - Dancing. - Music and Popular Poetry. - Self-respect. -
Love of Country. - Hospitality. - The Hungarian Hussars. - Manufactures of
Debreczen. - Reformed College. - Protestantism in Hungary. - Protestant
Colleges. - College of Debreczen. - Review. - English Officers in the
Austrian Service. - Water Melons. - Beggars. - The Szolga Biro of Szolnok.

CHAPTER II.
MUNICIPALITIES AND TAXATION.

County Meeting at Pest. - Origin of Hungarian Municipalities. - The
municipal Government of Counties. - Municipal Officers. - Fö Ispán. -
Vice-Ispán. - Szolga-biro. - Payment and Election of Magistrates. - County
Meetings - their Powers. - Restaurations. - Municipal Government of Towns.
- Senatus and Község. - Abuse of Candidation. - Municipal Government of
Villages. - Advantages of Decentralization The Biro. - Taxation Mode of
levying Taxes. - Amount of Revenue. - Errors of the System.

CHAPTER III.
DANUBE FROM PEST TO MOLDOVA.

The Zriny. - The Country below Pest. - Waste Lands An Accident Mohács. -
Peterwardein. - Karlowitz. - The Drave - Semlin. - The Crusaders The Save.
- Belgrade. - Danube Navigation. - The Border Guard - their Laws and
Organization. - The Theiss and Temes. - Semendria. - George Dosa. - Danube
Scenery. - Servia, and Russian Policy.

CHAPTER IV.
DANUBE FROM MOLDOVA TO ORSOVA.

Babakay. - The Vultures. - Golumbatz. - St. George's Cavern. - The Rapids.
- First Roman Inscription. - Kazan. - New Road. - Sterbeczu Almare. -
Trajan's Tablet. - Via Trajana. - Orsova. - New Orsova. - The Crusaders. -
Visit to the Pasha - The Quarantine. - The Iron Gates. - Trajan's Bridge -
its History and Construction. - Valley of the Cserna. - Turkish Aqueduct. -
Mehadia - its Baths and Bathers.

CHAPTER V.
BANAT.

Szegedin. - The Banat - its History. - Fertility. - State of Agriculture. -
Climate. - Mines. - Population. - Prosperous Villages. - The Peasant and
the Bishop of Agram. - The New Urbarium. - The Kammeral Administration. -
Temesvár. - Roads. - Baron Wenkheim's Reforms. - A Wolf Hunt.

CHAPTER VI.
THE VALLEY OF HÁTSZEG.

Valley of the Temes. - Wallack Beauty Ovid's Tower. - Iron Works at
Ruskberg. - Effects of regular Work and regular Pay. - Reformers in
Hungary. - Iron Bridge. - Iron-Gate Pass, between Hungary and Transylvania.
- Hospitality. - Várhely the Ulpia Trajana of the Romans. - The Dacians
under their native Kings - conquered by Trajan. - Wallack Language like
the Italian. - Wallacks of Dacian, not Roman, Origin. - Roman Remains at
Várhely. - Amphitheatre. - Mosaics.

CHAPTER VII.
VALLEY OF HÁTSZEG.

Demsus. - The Leiter-Wagen. - Roman Temple - its Form and probable
History. - Paintings in Wallack Churches. - Wallack Priests and their
Wives. - Russian Influence over the Members of the Greek Church. - Origin
of the United Greek Church. - Religious Oppression. - Education of the
Greek Priesthood. - Village of Várhely. - The Wallack Women. - Wallacks and
Scotchmen. - Wallack Vices and Wallack Virtues. - The Devil's Dancers. -
Our Host's Family. - Household Arrangements. - The Buffalo.

CHAPTER VIII.
ROUTE TO KLAUSENBURG.

Valley of Hátszeg. - Wallack Gallantry. - Transylvanian Travelling. -
Arrival at Vayda Hunyad. - The Gipsy Girl. - Hunyadi János. - Castle of
Hunyad - The painted Tower. - A Deputation. - A Rogue found out. - Deva. -
Valley of the Maros. - H - taken for a Spy. - Visit to the Mines of Nagy
Ág. - Politeness from a Stranger. - Transylvanian Post-office. - Sandstone
of the Felek.

CHAPTER IX.
TRANSYLVANIA. - HISTORY AND POLITICS.

Transylvania - its Population. - Settlement of the Szeklers. - of the
Magyars - of the Saxons, - under Woiwodes. - Zápolya. - Native Princes -
Bethlen Gábor. - Aristocratic Democracy. - Union with Austria. - Diploma
Leopoldinum. - Confirmed by Maria Theresa. - Actual Form of Government.
- Constitution infringed. - Opposition. - Baron Wesselényi. - County
Meetings. - Grievances. - General Vlasits. - Diet of 1834. - Archduke
Ferdinand. - History of the Diet. - Violent Dissolution. - Moral
Opposition.

CHAPTER X.
NORTH OF TRANSYLVANIA.

Transylvanian Roads. - A Solitary Inn. - Drág. - Zsibo. - Horse-breeding.
- Old Transylvanian Breed. - Count Bánffy's Stud. - English Breed - Baron
Wesselényi's Stud. - A Cross. - Bábolna Arabs. - Interesting Experiment. -
Rákótzy. - Robot. - Ride to Hadad. - The Vintage. - Transylvanian Wines. -
Oak Woods. - Scotch Farmer. - A Reformer's Trials. - State of the Peasantry
- Urbarium. - Stewards. - Establishments of the Nobles. - Social Anomalies. -
Old Fashions. - The Dinner. - Drive to Nagy Bánya. - Gipsies. - Gold Mines.
- Private Speculations. - Return.

CHAPTER XI.
THE SALT MINES AND GOLD MINES.

Horse Fair at Klausenburg. - Moldavian Horses - Cholera in Klausenburg. -
Thorda. - Valley of the Aranyos. - Miklós and his Peccadilloes. - A
Transylvanian Invitation - The Wallack Judge. - Thoroczko - The Unitarian
Clergyman. - St. György. - A Transylvanian Widow - Peasants' Cottages. -
The Cholera. - A Lady's Road. - Thordai Hasadék. - The Salt Mines of Szamos
Ujvár - The Salt Tax. - Karlsburg. - The Cathedral and krumme Peter. -
Wallack Charity. - Zalatna. - Abrud Bánya - The Gold Mines of Vörös Patak -
Csetatie. - Detonata. - Return. - College of Nagy Enyed. - English Fund. -
System of Education.

CHAPTER XII.
THE SZEKLERS AND THE SZEKLER-LAND,

The Szeklers - their ancient Rights and modern Position. - The Mezöség. -
Maros Vásárhely. - Chancellor Teleki and his Library. - A Szekler Inn. -
The Szekler Character. - Salt Rocks at Szováta. - The Cholera and the spare
Bed. - Miseria cum aceto. - Glories of Grock. - Salt Mines of Parayd. -
Udvarhely. - St. Pál. - Excursion to Almás - Superstition. - The Cavern. -
Sepsi St. György. - Keszdi Vásárhely. - The French Brewer. - The Szekler
Schools. - Szekler Hospitality. - The Büdös. - The Három-Szék.

CHAPTER XIII.
THE SAXONS AND THE SAXON LAND.

The Saxon Land. - Settlement of the Saxons - Their Charter. - Political and
Municipal Privileges. - Saxon Character. - School Sickness. - Kronstadt. -
A Hunting Party. - Smuggling from Wallachia. - The Bear and the General. -
Terzburg and the German Knights. - Excursion to Bucses. - The Kalibaschen.
- The Convent. - The Valleys of Bucses. - Virtue in Self-denial. - The
Alpine Horn. - Fortified Churches and Infidel Invasions. - Fagaras. -
Hermanstadt. - Baron Bruchenthal. - Rothen Thurm Pass. - A Digression
on Wallachia and Moldavia. - Saxon Language. - Beauty of Transylvania.

CHAPTER XIV.
KLAUSENBURG IN WINTER.

Transylvanian Hospitality. - Klausenburg. - Transylvanian Incomes. - Money
Matters. - The Gipsy Band. - Our Quarters. - The Stove. - The Great Square.
- The Recruiting Party. - A Soirée. - The Clergy. - The Reformed Church. -
Religious Opinions. - The Consistory. - Domestic Service. - County Meeting.
- Count Bethlen János. - Progress of Public Opinion. - The Arch-Duke. -
The Students and Officers. - Climate. - Separation of three Counties. - The
Unitarians. - Habits of Society. - The Ladies. - Education. - Children and
Parents. - Divorces. - Casino and Smoking. - Funerals. - Schools. - The
Theatre.

CHAPTER XV.
WINTER JOURNEY ACROSS THE PUSZTA.

Return to Pest. - A Poet. - Travelling Comforts. - The Carriers. - Gross
Wardein. - Prince Hohenlohe. - The Italian. - Paprika Hendel. - Great
Cumania. - The Cumanians and Jazygers. - The worst Road in Hungary.

CHAPTER XVI.
THE CARNIVAL IN PEST.

A Ball Ladies' Costume. - Luxury and Barbarism. - University of Pest. -
Number of Schools - Austrian System of Education. - its Effects. - Corruption
of Justice. - Delays of the Law. - Literature. - Mr. Kölcsey. - Baron
Josika. - Arts and Artists. - The Theatre. - Magyar Language. - Mr. Körösi
and his Expedition to Thibet. - Trade Companies. - Popular Jokes. -
Austria, Hungary, and Russia. - Blunders of Mr. Quin and other English
Writers on Hungary. - The last Ball of the Carnival. - The Masquerade. -
The breaking up of the Ice.

CHAPTER XVII.
FROM PEST TO FIUME.

Departure from Pest. - Notary of Tetény. - Volcanic District. - Bakonyer
Forest. - Subri. - Hungarian Robbers. - Conscription. - Wine of Somlyo. -
Keszthely. - Signs of Civilization. - Costume of Nagy Kánisa. - The Drave.
- Death of Zriny. - Croatia and Sclavonia. - State of the Peasantry. -
Agram. - Croatian Language. - Public Feeling in Croatia. - Smuggling. -
Karlstadt. - Save and Kulpa. - The Ludovica Road - its Importance. - Fiume.
- English Paper Mill. - Commerce. - Productions of Hungary. - Demand for
English Goods in Hungary. - Causes which impede Commerce, and the Means of
their Removal.