Contents

Prefatory Note
My Recollections of Vambéry. By Max Nordau

I. EARLY YEARS.
Tutor and Waiter - Vacation Rambles - Literary Studies - Linguistic Studies

II. THE FIRST JOURNEY.
At Galacz - A Storm at Sea - Penniless in Pera - A Teacher of Languages - Teaching a Turk - Hussein Daim Pasha - Ahmed Effendi

III. LIFE IN STAMBUL.
My First Book - Seeking for an Ancient Dialect - My Friends' Opinion of my Journey - "Reshid Effendi"

IV. FROM TREBIZOND TO ERZERUM.
At Trebizond - On the road to Erzerum

V. FROM ERZERUM TO THE PERSIAN FRONTIER.
The Frontier of Kurdistan - Attacked by Robbers - Tales of Robbers - An Old Friend

VI. FROM THE PERSIAN BORDER TO TEBRIZ.
On Persian Soil - The Bazaar at Khoy - The Seids

VII. IN TEBRIZ.
Study of the Shi-ite Sect - Holy Water - An Old Acquaintance - A Royal Investiture - An Overworked Embassy

VIII. IN ZENDJAN.
A Persian Medico - A Persian Miracle-Play - Tragedy appreciated

IX. FROM KAZVIN TO TEHERAN.
The Atoning Procession

X. IN TEHERAN.
Talking to Turks of Home - Social Contrasts in Asia

XI. THE SALT DESERT OF DESHTI-KUVIR.
Choosing a Companion - Morning Prayer - The Desert of Devils - The Caravan of the Dead

XII. KUM AND KASHAN.
The City of Virgins - The Tomb of Fatima - Kashan-Murder in the Desert

XIII. FROM ISFAHAN TO THE SUPPOSED TOMB OF CYRUS.
The Pope of Isfahan - Movable Towers - Tales for Travellers - Gazelles in the Desert - Fars

XIV. PERSEPOLIS.
Solomon's Throne - A Morning Reverie - Vandalism in Persia - Embracing the Pilgrims

XV. SHIRAZ.
Fertility of Shiraz - A Linguist's Joke - Persian Cruelty - Saadi - Europeans Feasting in Persia - An Earthquake in Shiraz - Desolation

XVI. PREPARATIONS FOR MY JOURNEY TO CENTRAL ASIA.
Chivalrous Dervishes - Scruples - Journey with Tartars - Committed to His Purpose

XVII. FROM TEHERAN TO THE LAND OF THE TURKOMANS.
Description of the Caravan - Incognito Unveiled - Thieving Jackals - Unrequited Love - The Slave Trade

XVIII. GOMUSHTEPE.
Receiving the Pilgrims - How to become a Dervish - Learning in the Wilds - Slavery - A Betrothal Feast - A Robber Chief

XIX. FROM GOMUSHTEPE TO THE BORDER OF THE DESERT.
Threatened by the Wild Boar - An Anxious Moment

XX. IN THE DESERT.
Suspicion Aroused - A Pious Brother - Karendag Mountains - Little Balkan Mountains - Charm of the Desert - Thirst! - Hot Weather

XXI. IN KHIVA.
An Army of Asses - Rest and Dread - Making a Friend - The Khan - A Lion in Khiva - Fierce Barbarism

XXII. FROM KHIVA TO BOKHARA.
Intoxicated Dervishes - A Khivan Fair - Flying from Tekkes - Thirst and Despair - Among Slaves

XXIII. IN BOKHARA.
Life in Bokhara - More Suspicions - Theology in Bokhara - The Slave Trade - The Road to Samarkand

XXIV. IN SAMARKAND.
Tombs of the Saints - Ambition and Prudence - A Royal Cross-Examiner

XXV. FROM SAMARKAND TO HERAT.
Taken for a Runaway Slave - A Scorpion Bite - Saved by Prayers - Redemption of Slaves - Exorbitant Tolls

XXVI. IN HERAT AND BEYOND IT.
A City in Ruins - Yakub Khan - Freezing Weather

XXVII. IN MESHED.
A Meshed Crowd - An Unceremonious Visitor - A Welcome - A Meshed Monument - Persecution of Jews - The Tomb of Firdusi

XXVIII. FROM MESHED TO TEHERAN.
An Old Friend - Saddle v. Cushions - A Curious Phenomenon - Alone in the Desert - An Englishman - A Snug Berth - Confounding the Disturbers - Reputation without Foundation

XXIX. FROM TEHERAN TO TREBIZOND.
The Discomforts of Civilization - Presented to the Shah - Persian Official Corruption - A Character - An Expensive Photographer

XXX. HOMEWARDS.
Constantinople - London

XXXI. IN ENGLAND.
Sir Henry Rawlinson - Sir Roderick Murchison - Lord Strangford - A Lion in London - At Burlington House - The Sorrows of Authorship

XXXII. IN PARIS.
Napoleon III. - French Suspicions

XXXIII. IN HUNGARY.
In Hungary